I do have a skid plate, and even the other Fumoto valve model and I do not see how you can damage this valve and if so, you will definitely will damage the oil pan too. Pull dipstick out of tube and wipe off with a clean shop rag. Quote: Originally posted by FirstToyz Have you guys tried the oil change suction machine? You should be able to use the same washer twice. If you don't, I wouldn't go out and buy one for this purpose. Install in the correct location on the oil filter housing cap.
Update - missed the last part of your comment - my bad. Consider that the manufacturer has a conflict of interest for this spec. The engine was ruined or another shop botched an oil change later on a repaired pan and laid the blame on the shop that did the repair? Don't forget to reset you maintenance light. The fuel rail is usually mounted at a torque of 84 to 180 inch-pounds. The oil pan under the car is mounted with bolts tightened to around 80 inch-pounds.
This process will not only tighten the drain plug, but it will also allow you to watch as the drain plug washer, O-ring or crush washer is seated. You want to make it really snug, but you don't want to really try and torque it down. These are the steps I take and tools I use when performing a oil change. One big plus is that you have direct access to the oil filter media. If all is well inside your engine it should be clean. A manual transmission does not have a pan but the drain and fill plugs have the same torque as the drain plug on the automatic.
I know these are for a Tacoma, but the majority Of them will apply to our 4Runners, with the exception of the leaf spring and u-bolts. Remove large black O-ring and wipe down entire oil filter housing cap with a shop rag both inside and out. Open hood: Slide under the front end and look up. Inside your new oil filter box you will fine a filter, gasket bag, and a roundish plastic fitting. Get a firm mental picture of the entire process so there will be no skipped steps or unwanted surprises. There are other tools available so pick one that works for you.
Hand tighten, do not over tighten,,, you will strip the thread on the drain pan. Better to follow Toyota recommendations and I have pre-paid maintenance, so no need for oil, filter hanging around the house. It is a good habit to develop and can prevent unwanted engine problems down the road. A little oil may come out but not much. My advice is don't go above one bid and if overbid wait for him to put up a new set the following week, you'll eventually get them.
Wipe it off and put it on the other end of the plastic drain fitting you just made in the previous step. Insert the plastic fitting with O-ring into the bottom of the oil filter housing cap. When walking up to your vehicle look for any signs of leakage: puddles under engine. Finger tight for is fine for now. The local dealership told the owner they would need a new oil pan. Toyota designers were nice enough to locate the items you need to access on the front side of the engine.
What if a shop installed an oversized plug, Heli-Coil, or whatever and there was a problem later with the plug falling out. The thread above says the engine oil drain bolt torque spec is 28 ft-lbs. I've never used a torque wrench either. I changed the oil today on a 05 and it didn't have a crush washer. Keep in mind - this is a beginner level service thread.
I do without any problems. The spark plugs torque from 160 inch-pounds to 20 foot-pounds. Too risky doing this, but for sure most of us even with a 4x4 model we will not risk the integrity of the truck even without the valve? I'll bring some wrenches to check fasteners on dealer site after a service. My intent here was to provide a quick reference, rather than having to dig through a thread just to find the torque specs of a particular bolt. What you end up with should look like picture below: Remember the small black O-ring I told you to hold onto from when you removed the oil filter housing drain plug a few steps earlier? The tubing will direct the flow of oil into the drain pan without the mess. Figured it'd be here somewhere.
This gives the oil time to flow back down into the oil pan for a correct oil level reading. So, by using a torque wrench, there's no need to guess and no need to worry about the plug either coming loose or stripping the oil pan threads. Never thought to google it. Yes, I also recall working on my dad's 1967 Mustang when I was a teen and breaking bolts constantly. Torque is created by the twisting force or the rotational force of the drain bolt.